Start with simit. It is the sesame-crusted bread ring sold from red carts on nearly every corner, and it is the cheapest honest breakfast in the city — a few lira, eaten warm, ideally with a glass of tea. Buy it in the morning when the carts are still turning over fresh stock; an afternoon simit is often a stale simit.
Doner is where tourists lose money. The spit-roasted meat itself is fine almost everywhere, but the versions sold in the few streets directly facing the main Sultanahmet monuments are smaller, pricier, and aimed at people who will never come back. Walk two or three streets into a residential block, find the counter with a line of locals on their lunch break, and you get a better wrap for less.
Balik ekmek — the grilled fish sandwich — is the rare iconic dish that lives up to it. The Eminonu waterfront, near the Galata Bridge, is the classic spot, with fish grilled at the water's edge and served in bread with onion, lettuce and a squeeze of lemon. It is messy, it is good, and it pairs naturally with the Bosphorus right in front of you. Prices move with the season and the fish, so treat any single number you read online as a rough guide, not gospel.




