Most guidebooks write about Istanbul as a summer city and quietly imply the boats stop in winter. They do not — I sail the strait all year, and the cold months are quietly my favourite. The crowds thin right out between November and March, so the deck has room and there is no queue to board, and prices ease 15 to 25 percent off the peak. The light is the real prize: the low winter sun holds a soft gold over the water for most of the afternoon, and the palaces and mosques look their most powerful standing against a heavy grey sky.
Rain worries people more than it should. Istanbul gets a dozen or so wet days a month in winter, but the showers are usually short, and the dinner cruise — the busiest product all year — is mostly an indoor, heated room with a view, so a passing squall barely registers. If your trip falls in the cold season, do not write off the Bosphorus cruise; for a lot of families it turns out to be the part of the holiday they did not see coming.




